Movement
The 7s26 movement by Seiko is renowned for its reliability, featuring just four key moving components which makes it one of the most straightforward automatic systems available. It includes a day-date display that can be quickly set, and it winds automatically in both directions thanks to Seiko's unique Magic Lever mechanism. With 21 jewels and a beat rate of 21,600 beats per hour, it does not support manual winding or hacking. While generally affordable and dependable, its accuracy varies significantly, typically rated between 20 to 40 seconds per day. Nevertheless, the movement can be fine-tuned for better precision, and some units, like mine, are quite accurate from the start, gaining about 4 seconds daily.
Case
To start with the specifications, the SKX007 case measures about 42.5mm in width, extending to 45.5mm when the crown is included. The lug width is 22mm, and the lug-to-lug measurement is a versatile 46mm, ensuring it fits comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes. It has a thickness of 13.25mm, a common characteristic among Seiko dive watches. Despite this, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist and is not overly elevated. The case is ISO-rated for water resistance, boasting a depth of 200m.
Exclusive to Seiko, the SKX007 case mirrors an evolutionary design, with similarities to previous models. Its look is akin to the 7002 model, which was a streamlined version of the turtle-shaped 6309.
The case design is smooth, without sharp edges or transitions between different finishes. The sides are polished, while the lug tops have a fine-brushed appearance. There's a subtle bevel where the case meets the bezel, extending seamlessly down to the lugs. The crown, large and positioned at 4 o'clock, is accented by crown guards that are well-integrated into the case design. It is unsigned and features coin edging; however, the crown guards can make it somewhat challenging to operate. The case is topped with a chamfered crystal made from Seiko's Hardlex, a hardened mineral crystal known for its resistance to shattering, though it scratches more easily than sapphire.
The 120-click bezel is exceptionally crafted, featuring a two-tiered groove pattern for a secure grip. The bezel's performance is superb, without the wobble or poor action often found at this price range. It clicks smoothly and precisely, comparable to the bezel action on more expensive watches. The bezel insert is made of black aluminum with silver minute markers all around, with the lume pip at 60 being protected.
The watch's reverse side reveals a screw-down solid case back with Seiko's embossed Tsunami medallion. The technical specifications are etched around the edge of the case back.
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Legend Has It
The SKX007 is perhaps the most commonly suggested mechanical tool watch in recent times. Over the last decade, it became almost standard for us writers to advise newcomers to simply opt for the SKX007 when looking for a starter tool watch. Eventually, recommending the SKX007 turned into something of a cliché.
Priced under 0 and featuring comprehensive mechanical dive watch specifications according to the ISO 6425 standard, the SKX007 was unmatched. It also benefited from the reputation of Seiko dive watches, which were considered icons of the 20th century—especially models like the 62MAS and the Turtle worn by Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now. Seiko divers had always been regarded as cool, and their popularity was further boosted by influencers.
The SKX007 is a well-known secret in contemporary watchmaking.
Greetings, 007. Today we're exploring what I consider another open secret in modern watchmaking: the Seiko Diver, model SKX007. This watch provides immense value at any cost, meeting all the ISO 6425 standards necessary to be considered a diver's watch in ISO member countries. While it complies with all the official requirements, its charm comes from its own qualities rather than just its incredibly low price, similar to another known Seiko model, the Seiko 5, which we previously discussed in our story titled 'A Watch That Looks Like A Million Bucks.'
Despite its modest price, the SKX007 is part of a distinguished line of diving watches dating back to 1965 with Seiko’s 150-meter water-resistant reference 6217. Since then, Seiko has released a wide array of diving watches, from the iconic reference 6105, which gained fame on Martin Sheen's wrist in the movie Apocalypse Now, to professional models designed for extreme conditions like saturation diving. Notably, in 1975, Seiko created the first watch using a titanium case—the 600-meter Pro Diver. The 1980 Porsche Design Titan Chronograph was the first to feature both a titanium case and bracelet. Today, Seiko’s offerings include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver, a highly accurate mechanical dive watch that showcases technical excellence. For more in-depth history, see the fascinating article on Monochrome.
The immediate predecessor of the SKX007 is the Seiko 7002, sharing a similar design and a water resistance of 200 meters. Although SKX007 is no longer produced, it remains available on secondary markets and serves as an entry point into both Seiko’s diving watches and genuine ISO-compliant mechanical diving watches. Impressively, Seiko still provides the 7002 user manual on its website.
The SKX007 focuses on functional minimalism with no superfluous features. The watch case is made of solid stainless steel and is crafted with the same high quality found in all Seiko watches, even at entry-level. The rounded sides elegantly rise to form crown guards, with the crown positioned at 4 o'clock for comfort. The watch can’t be hand-wound and needs to be moved gently for winding.
The bezel offers half-minute rotations, showing its quality despite its low price. The luminous pearl on the triangle tip aligns perfectly for precise timing. The dial is simple yet functional, featuring large, bright lume markers. Seiko dive watches are known for their bright luminosity, and the seconds hand includes white paint and a lume dot for low-light visibility. Some might not like the white date-day disks, but they enhance the dial's symmetry and legibility.
The jubilee-style bracelet is functionally sufficient. It might rattle slightly, similar to the OEM bracelet for the Seiko 5, and some owners enjoy swapping out straps. Though not including a diver’s wetsuit extension, it's quite comfortable, and considering the price, one can't complain. For frequent diving, a long NATO or rubber strap might be preferable.
Dial and Hands
The straightforward dial is intentionally crafted for practicality, yet it still carries some of Seiko's signature appeal. It includes a matte black base with rounded white hour markers, except for two distinct features. One is the angled day-date window at the 3 o'clock mark, and the other is the inverted triangle at the 12 o'clock position. In general, the markers are large and easy to read, which is essential for any professional diving watch.
Usually, I'm quick to criticize white date wheels on black dials, but in this case, it doesn't bother me much. While I would still prefer a date wheel that matches and might alter my watch in the future—more on modifications later—I think the white window, extended for both features, aligns well with the longer marker at 9 o'clock, maintaining a balanced look on the dial. The day wheel offers bilingual options in Spanish and English, with Saturday displayed in blue and Sunday in red. The brand's logo is situated traditionally below the 12 o'clock marker, with the word AUTOMATIC just beneath SEIKO. The depth rating is above the 6 o'clock mark, stating DIVERS 200m in red, which adds a nice touch of color. The watch face is further extended by the sloping chapter ring, which is black with silver minute and second markers.
The hour and minute hands are unique to Seiko and reflect the brand's legacy. The hour hand is sword-shaped, and the minute hand has a stylized arrow design with a broad base, both ending in a fine point. They are generously filled with luminous material and bordered in chrome, which provides a warmer appearance than stainless steel would. The seconds hand is atypical for Seiko, with a notably long counterbalance featuring a luminous lollipop at the end bordered in black trim—a departure from Seiko's usual placement of lumed circles or segments at the front of the seconds hand. I find this quirky element appealing, not because of any increased functionality, but because it's intriguing to watch the floating disc traverse the dial. The rest of the seconds hand is coated in white.
Regarding luminescence, the SKX007 utilizes Seiko's patented LumiBrite technology, renowned for its excellent night visibility. The hands and markers are heavily filled with this material, allowing them to glow well into the night with a full charge.
The Seiko SKX007
The Seiko SKX007 is a 42.5mm dive watch with a lug spacing of 22mm. Like many of Seiko's dive watches, it appears slightly smaller on the wrist, resembling a 41mm watch. This is partly due to its compact 46mm lug-to-lug length. The case is 13mm thick and offers a 200m depth rating with a screw-down crown. Inside, the watch features the Seiko 7S26 movement, a basic 21-jewel automatic caliber operating at 21,600 beats per hour, which does not provide hacking seconds or manual winding.
The movement has a standard deviation of 20 to 40 seconds per day, making it not particularly precise unless you get a particularly good one. I've had watches with this movement that met COSC specifications, while others were at the extremes of the stated range.
Price changes on the secondary market
Last year, my colleague Daan rediscovered his SKX007 after finding it in his wife's drawer. Its reappearance allowed him to appreciate what he liked about the watch again. However, global trends might have shifted the landscape when considering the Seiko SKX007. It's now more challenging to justify purchasing an SKX007 than it was in 2019.
Recently, as I attempted to buy one, I noticed how secondary market prices for the watch have changed since about a year ago. After extensive searching, it became clear that SKX007 prices are varied, with some sellers asking over 5,000! I was shocked to see such listings, considering the SKX007 is fundamentally a basic watch.
What is the appeal of the Seiko SKX007?
I believe it comes down to what the Seiko SKX007 signifies. It is a representation of entering the hobby for many enthusiasts, coupled with nostalgia. The newer Seiko 5 models replacing the SKX series have faced criticism for downgrading some features while upgrading others.
The 4R35 movement in these new Seiko 5 models is an improvement, offering manual winding and hacking. However, the absence of a screw-down crown undermines the original design of the watch. Thus, I think the current allure of the SKX007 is rooted in both the admiration of the original model and a rejection of its successor.
So, is the Seiko SKX007 worth seeking in 2024?
Considering the SKX007's significance in introducing new enthusiasts to the watch hobby, the answer is yes—with a condition. The Seiko SKX007 is a fantastic watch, but with rising secondary market prices, one key reason for its popularity—affordability—has decreased.
If you can purchase an SKX007 for the original retail price from 2019 or less, I recommend doing so. However, paying more than its previous retail price of 0 in 2017 feels unreasonable, given the watch's original appeal as an entry-level, value-driven timepiece. If you can't find an affordable SKX007, consider the Seiko SRPE93, a slightly better-built option reminiscent of the original 6309.
Concluding thoughts
What did I do? I borrowed a friend's Seiko SKX007 and wore it for a week. This experience showed me that I like the design enough to purchase one if I found the right piece. However, these watch journeys often take unexpected turns, and I eventually discovered another Seiko model with a different dial that matched my preferences better. I opted for a Seiko SKX173, a US-market version of the SKX. I'll share my thoughts on the SKX173 after spending some time with it.
- Home, Watch Brands, Seiko, Is The Classic Seiko SKX007 Dive Watch Still Worth Your Time In 2024?
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Hands-On Seiko SPB143 / SBDC101 62MAS Prospex 200m Diver
Today, we're addressing a significant oversight. After four years, we're finally evaluating the Seiko SKX007. This model stands out as one of the most iconic divers available today. If the Submariner represents the ultimate dive watch in the luxury segment, then the SKX007 is unquestionably the affordable alternative. It's often the first mechanical watch chosen by new collectors, yet it’s also cherished by experienced enthusiasts for its sturdy construction, appealing design, ISO-certified casing, and outstanding nighttime luminescence. With a market price around 0, depending on vendor and availability, it serves as a reliable watch you don’t need to be too cautious with. Beyond its price, it's a well-crafted piece that balances versatility with practicality, all from a highly respected company.
The SKX007 has its roots in Seiko's earliest dive watches, beginning with the legendary 62MAS and progressing through the 6105, 63069, and 7002 models. Introduced in 1996, the SKX007 is among Seiko's modern divers featuring the brand's automatic 7s26 movement. Other versions share the same casing but showcase different dial designs and colors, some specifically created for certain international markets. There are even variations depending on where the watch was produced, with some collectors preferring the made in Japan editions above all others.